• Blocking Basics
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Blocking Basics

Blocking is an important step toward making your crocheted pieces look more professional. It's a way of "dressing" or finishing your projects using moisture and sometimes heat. Proper blocking of a crocheted garment can go a long way toward making it look and fit better. Blocking sets the stitches and can even enhance the drape of the fabric. Seaming and edging are easier on blocked pieces, and minor sizing adjustments may be made during the blocking process.

Look for this beautiful Forget-Me-Knot doily in the March 2010 issue of Crochet! magazine

There are different methods for blocking crocheted pieces, and knowing which one to use for a particular project can make all the difference in achieving a successful result. Choosing the correct blocking method depends on what the item is and what type of yarn or thread is used. Some items might not be suitable for blocking, such as three-dimensional pieces that are difficult to handle, or very small items such as Christmas ornaments. Also, certain fibers might not be suitable for blocking.

Getting Started
You'll need a blocking board, rustproof pins, a steamer or steam iron, a spray bottle, and your yarn or thread labels. A blocking "board" needs to be a flat surface that's large enough to hold the piece or pieces you want to block. Pieces should fit completely on the board so that they are not hanging over the edge.

Your blocking board will need to be in a location where it can remain undisturbed until the blocking is finished, which can range from just a few minutes to more than a day, depending on the circumstances. The board needs to be able to handle pins, moisture and heat. To block large items such as afghans or shawls, for example, a guest-room bed or a large, well-padded table -- even a sheet-covered carpeted floor -- work great.

Choose Your Method
Blocking methods may be described as wet, dry or cold. The actual method you choose will vary depending on yarn content, final use and your own preferences.

Consult the yarn label. If different fibers have been combined in the same item, the most delicate fiber takes precedence. Most natural fibers such as wool, cotton, linen and mohair may be either wet or dry blocked. Some synthetic fibers do not benefit from blocking and may, in fact, be ruined by careless blocking. Novelty and metallic fibers may need special care and may not be suitable for blocking.

While it's always advisable to make a test swatch for any pattern to check gauge, an added benefit is that you will also have a piece to practice blocking to make sure you are using the proper method. For example, did you know that too much heat can "kill" acrylic yarn, making it shiny and limp? It's better to wreck a swatch than a whole afghan.

Wet blocking is suitable only for those fibers which tolerate submersion. Wash the piece first, if desired, or thoroughly wet it and gently squeeze out excess water. Do not wring or twist! For two-dimensional pieces, lay the piece out flat, and gently pat and shape it into the desired finished measurements. Pin the piece securely in place using rustproof pins or blocking wires. For three-dimensional pieces, stuff the piece with rolled-up plastic grocery bags or other waterproof stuffing. For round pieces, blowing up a balloon to the desired size inside the item works well. Leave the piece undisturbed until it is completely dry. You can hasten the drying process by setting up a fan to blow over the area.

Dry blocking is suitable for fibers which can tolerate moisture and heat (steam). Pin the piece into the desired shape and size on the blocking board. Pins should be close together and evenly spaced so as not to distort the fabric. Blocking wires also work well. Holding a steamer or steam iron an inch or more above item, steam the fabric well. Do not allow an iron to touch the fabric and do not press. After steaming, leave the piece undisturbed until it is completely cool and dry.

Cold blocking can be used for fibers which can tolerate moisture but not heat. Pin the piece into shape on the blocking board as for dry blocking. Mist with a spray bottle of clean water until the piece is completely wet. If stubborn areas resist lying flat, use additional pins as needed or press with your hand for a few seconds (it's amazing how the gentle warmth from your skin can help!). Leave the item undisturbed until it is completely dry. Again, a fan can help speed things up.

Now that you know the different ways to block your projects and which method works best for which projects, hopefully you'll feel more confident to take that extra step and give your projects a more finished look. But don't forget to practice on a test swatch first!